Barcelona

Having been in Spain from October 18th to November 8th, I’m a bit behind in blogging…we’ve been too busy enjoying the sand, surf, and sun along with the hustle and bustle of Barcelona. Arriving in Spain and adjusting to a new language and feel for completing daily tasks took some focus on our parts. Our first three days were spent staying at an apartment in the Sants neighbourhood of Barcelona. This is not a tourist area of Barcelona and we enjoyed our glimpse into the daily routines of Catalonians. The daily schedule of a siesta and late evening family and community activities is most definitely a departure from our North American one – though it was especially wonderful to see yet again examples of how community is important even in a large city. Everyone comes out to the central squares in the evening. Children play, families visit – a laid-back and friendly atmosphere prevails. Given that everyone in the area lives in apartment buildings, Barcelona living is not made for those who are determined to remain independent and covet personal space; your wash is out for all to see (literally) so embrace it.

View from the back of our apartment in Barcelona Sants

During both the 3 days we stayed in Barcelona and the three additional visits into the city from our stay in Sitges, we discovered dramatically different neighbourhoods each with its own feel. La Ramblas was spectacular due to the sheer number of people strolling along and the many waiters attempting to cajole you to try their watered down ‘tourist in Spain’ fare. Moving off La Ramblas, we were quickly swept down innumerable side streets filled with shops no larger than a small kitchen selling everything from locally made shoes to (what else), knock off football jerseys. The Gothic Quarter (named for it’s architecture) is vast and I would say worth more of our time given the Roman history still evident as well as the many squares where perhaps the food is more authentic Catalonian fare.

My parents and I were able to take in a traditional Spanish guitar concert by Manuel Gonzalez in the Capella de la Sang – Church of Santa Maria del Pi (14th century). After a 40 minute train ride in from our smaller town of Sitges, we found ourselves in a beautiful square, eating outstanding tapas, and at every turn remarking on some new detail that had come to light.

Church of Santa Maria del Pi

 

The concert was an opportunity to float through some of the musical history of Spain and Catalonia in particular. The talent and commitment of the guitarist evident and his joy in sharing his music with the audience evident. We all had smiles on our faces and enjoyed his two encore performances, specifically the final one he called “An Interrupted Romance” where the music moved between a traditional Spanish love song and random popular pop, country, and heavy metal songs. A gift given to all of us in a beautiful location with wonderful people. I was personally thrilled to share some of our different experiences with my parents and watch their response to the beauty around us.

As already detailed by Kelly, we were in Barcelona to pick up tickets for Ethan’s big El Classico ticket surprise, but during that visit we also were able to take in some of the most spectacular architecture for which Barcelona is renowned.  Antoni Gaudi, famous for his incredible and distinct designs – even the most disinterested in architecture would pause to comment. I am no expert in architecture and so do not wish to misstep in my descriptions; however, suffice it to say that various lines and unique colours of the buildings combine to stop me in my proverbial tracks.

Initially I felt that we had seen what we needed to of Barcelona, but on second thought and following our final evening supper before leaving on the night train for Venice, more time needs to be spent discovering the nooks and crannies. I have no doubt we’ll be back.

Mes Que Un Club (More Than A Club)

The reality of travel, especially family travel on a fixed budget, is that even with a year at your disposal you can’t do everything.  It is, however, fun to dream a bit.  During the time leading up to our trip, a common question amongst our family  was, “If you could do one thing on our holiday, what would it be?”.  Ethan’s choice, made when he was six or seven, was decisive and never wavered in the intervening years.  He wanted to watch El Clasico, the iconic match between FC Barcelona and Real Madrid, the two giants of Spanish football.  In terms of club football, only the Champions League Final is more closely attended to by soccer fans around the world.  Ethan has loved Barcelona since he started rolling a ball around and Leo Messi is his hero. He wears a new Barca jersey every year. It was a sensible wish. To him, Barcelona is more than a club.

Joanne and I supported this wish, which is easy by the way when you don’t think you will have to make it come true.  We were going to be in Spain for a month, a month and a half at most.  That time shrank to just over 3 weeks with extended time in France and the unexpected addition of Australia to the agenda.  What were the chances that Barca and Real would be playing?  To my horror/delight, 100%.  Delight at the fact that the schedules (FC Barcelona’s and ours) aligned.  They were playing Real, at home, during the 11 days we had booked to stay in/near Barcelona.  Horror at the logistics that we now faced.  Since we were still in France, we had to go through the internet to book tickets.  Trying to find a legitimate after-market ticket retailer was a chore.  There are many less than reputable sites who are willing to take your money (all “legitimate” tickets had long-since been sold out). We also needed seats together.    It became clear that our finances would not support a family of four being able to attend the game, so we drew straws and determined that Ethan and I would attend.  Those of you who know my wife know that she is a sports fan.  This was not a small sacrifice. We ultimately went with the recommendation of the property manager we were booking our stay in Barcelona through and booked with http://www.footballticketsbarcelona.com.  Theoretically, we would be able to pick up the tickets the day before the game.

With the theoretical acquisition of tickets accomplished, we now set about deceiving our son.  He knew full-well that the game was approaching, but understood that tickets were not going to be possible.  We visited Camp Nou and toured the museum and stadium.  It becomes immediately evident that FC Barcelona is more than a club.  They are part of the fabric of Catalunya (Catalonia).  They are inseparable from the history, politics, culture and future of the region.  In a very real sense, when you enter Camp Nou, you are entering a cathedral of sorts.

We were also able to enhance the quality of the deception by attending the La Liga match between Espanyol (the other Barcelona team) and Atletico Madrid, currently the 2nd place team in Spain.  The match was affordable for our family of four and the atmosphere was incredible.  It was an interesting experience attending a sporting event that didn’t begin until 10pm.  As my friend Dan Rawlyk put it, “10 pm is the middle of the afternoon in Spain”.  Ethan thought that it was as good as it was going to get.

On the day we were scheduled to pick up the tickets, we got on the metro and made our way to the listed address.  No signs.  No office.  Just a gated door.  Great.  Left with no other options, I pushed on the door.  It opened into a lobby.  Empty.  No signs.  No office. Just a door. Great.  Left with no other options, I pushed on the door.  To my surprise, there was a fellow sitting in a room using a laptop.  I asked “tickets?”  He motioned up the stairs to an unmarked door.  I opened it up to find a fully functioning travel/ticketing business.  I gave my confirmation number, the tickets were produced, and I was on my way.  Relief.  Ethan, waiting on the street with Jo and Anderson, had no idea why his dad had entered this building.  The pictures tell the story of his response when I came out and handed him the tickets.

Game day randoms:  Pre-game tapas, served by a waiter on a segway. The tickets were legit. The crowd forming a human tunnel to welcome the Barca players bus. 100,000 fans.  Ethan singing the Barca song, mugging for the camera, yelling at the referee, cheering wildly, hugging  other fans, and smiling from the time he woke up until he fell asleep.  Ethan calling the shot, saying that subbing in Alexis Sanchez (scored the game winner) would pay off.  Alexis’ chip sailing in right in front of us. (4th row seats).  2-1 Barca win.  Messi, Ronaldo, Neymar, Benzema, Iniesta, Bale, Xavi,  Sergio Ramos, Dani Alves, di Maria, Fabregas, Khedira. The incredible, knowledgeable, respectful crowd.  The look on my sons face.  The experience of a lifetime.  Mes que un club.