Malaysian Experience

Our stop in Kuala Lumpur was primarily for reconnecting with our friends, Sam and LeeAnn Krishnan. Although LeeAnn is Canadian, she married Sam, a Malaysian, in 1999 and they have been living and working in Kuala Lumpur ever since. Of particular note is the ministry work they have been doing – Sam is the leader of a drug rehabilitation centre called Breakthrough and Lee is intricately involved in many areas of the ministry as well as raising their 4 children. 13 years ago, we had our first foray into Malaysia; however, had not seen one another since with limited contact. With both of our families expanded significantly (they have 4 children now), we were excited for our families to explore daily life together.

Breakthrough is a ministry supported by a mega Methodist church in KL – with over 3000 people attending services and involved in programming, it was amazing to enter a Muslim country and join in Sunday services with vibrant worship and a message of hope. Having attended churches in many different countries and of many different denominations, we were curious about this predominantly Chinese congregation. Suffice it to say, that it is near impossible to exit the building without being in some meaningful way connected to an individual or group – offers of meals, coffee, or joining in on various activities abounded. It was an encouragement to see our friends so well supported and involved in a vital faith community!

Kuala Lumpur is an interesting mix of third world and modern development. The downtown core is filled with towering skyscrapers, fancy cars, sophisticated shopping malls, and efficient public transit. Head outside of the core, and you will discover streets filled with adhoc market stalls, random shops, and the ever present hoard of scooters with 4+ passengers drinking pop in a plastic bag (really – everything is in a plastic bag here!).

View from our apartment

View of downtown from our apartment

Typical transportation on major highways

The market can be stressful

It was the daily life of KL we loved. Food is important in Malaysia – good food! Sam and Lee took us to many incredible food spots where we were able to taste Thosai, Roti Telur, Nasi Goreng, the famous Durian fruit (check out the boys’ expressions after eating it), Beef stomach and tendon soup… Eating together and hearing all of the kids make sense of one another’s daily lives in different countries and context was a joy.

King Durian

Kelly did the honours

Their first taste…

…and reaction…

Sam – the expert teacher

Men in the kitchen = good food!

Enjoying some tulse for breakfast

The best beef stomach and intestines around!

Traditional Thosai Tower

The laughter, arguments, and good natured teasing that may have sometimes ended in a few tears was just what our boys needed. Thankfully our apartment complex had a huge pool and with the weather being +36 and feeling like +45 degrees, this was a central gathering place when we weren’t out and about.

We all enjoyed small purchases from our Petaling Street market visits. Sam was outstanding as we walked slightly ahead of him and indicated any items we were interested in. He would then go into the stall and get the “local” bartering price, and not the price including ‘skin tax’ as they refer to it in Malaysia. I liken the bartering in the market to a special kind of dance – facial expressions, posture, and sounds of ‘hmmm…’ and ‘ahhhh’ all combine to equal the art of the barter. Sam was able to abscond with some lovely knock off products at a fraction of the starting price. Kelly and I returned to Petaling street without Sam a few days later and for those of you who know me (Joanne), you will chuckle as I was keen to purchase a sweater for Anderson. As the shopkeeper started off with an outrageous amount, I demonstrated my ‘delicate’ approach which is to say, I firmly believe that a lot of guess work can be avoided by being upfront. True to form, my response was “Right, I was here yesterday with my friend Sam who is Malaysian, and he bought the exact sweater for 25 RM (ringitt). How about, we save time, and you go from your price of 75 RM to 25 RM or I walk?” Needless to say if you liken my bartering move to dancing, you may wish to second guess volunteering as my partner, for your feet may be somewhat battered by the end of the song…but I did get the sweater for 25 RM. Success!

One of our outings involved a trip to the Batu Caves, famous limestone caves and also a central Hindu shrine. With 272 steps leading to the entrance of the caves, it is a daunting climb given the need to be nimble as you avoid the rather ferocious monkeys flitting about looking for any piece of food to scavenge. Every phobia one might have of monkeys may well be proven here and we made sure to strategically pick our route. The gigantic statue of Murugan, a Hindu god dwarfs the cave entrance; however, once up in the caves, the limestone stalagmites and stalactites are remarkable and take over in terms of grandeur. We had to laugh though as of course the kids fascination with chasing pigeons will probably take precedence in their memories – they were obsessed with running into the large flock at the base of the stairs – some of us spent more time ducking our heads in hope of avoiding being hit by special deliveries from the sky as the pigeons flew about!

Our family was so blessed by our time in KL and once again – yes there is a theme here folks…it is the people with whom we spend time with, and next to, not the location, that make this experience special and life changing.

Cave Fam

Our final major adventure stop in NZ was at Waitomo Caves. With limestone rock formations peppered throughout cattle and sheep pasture, one could drive through and do little more than comment on the seemingly random hilly terrain. However, to those who know caves – this region is a playground boasting over 300 caves! With many companies vying for the popular tourist dollar, we did some research prior to booking. There is a large company which takes groups of over 30 into one of the larger caves, however, we chose to go with Spellbound Tours, a small company based out of the general store in Waitomo. Rather than an hour long tour, surrounded by many, we enjoyed over 3 hours in and around the caves with a group of 12. Our tour guide had a great sense of humour and we very much appreciated his interest in getting to know the people in the group and building our love for the caves we were entering. This was Science curriculum at it’s best. Stalagmites, stalactites, columns, glowworms…it was outstanding!

We entered two separate caves – the first was via a path down to a dinghy where we were enthralled by the seemingly bright lights of the glowworms. Glowworms: such a cuddly sounding term. Really, they are fungus gnats which glow during their larval stage. Catching food with delicate silk threads hanging down, it is quite the feat of nature to see millions of these throughout the cave. As we floated down the stream within the cave in complete darkness, the gentle ‘kerplop’ of water droplets combined with the glittering ceiling, it felt as though we were being transported into a totally different world.

The second cave was much different in that we were able to observe many distinct limestone formations due to various entry points of sunlight beaming down, exposing crystallized formations. We enjoyed a traditional Maori song sung by three young girls from Wellington – the acoustics in the cave were beautiful. The boys were not as eager to continue on in song, but managed to hum a few sounds. If you’re headed to Waitomo – we would highly recommend booking with Spellbound Tours!

With our time in NZ quickly coming to an end, we spent one day in Auckland and confirmed that while Auckland is a lovely spot, one does not visit NZ for the cities. We thoroughly enjoyed all parts of our visit to this great country (okay, Wellington wasn’t really a highlight). If you’re planning a trip here – it had better be more than 2 weeks and even at that, be sure that you understand you will only skim the surface of all NZ has to offer! The sites, the outdoor activity, the people…all combine to create an ultimate travel experience! Next for us: South East Asia!

Saying Goodbye

Fiji Time

Here we are – the place we’ve often dreamed of travelling to given indescribable water and island terrain. After leaving Brisbane on December 27th, we arrived in Nadi (pronounced Nandi) late afternoon. Yet again, we were struck by the different climate as we stepped off the plane and when entering the airport, were greeted by an enthusiastic “Bula” from a group of locals. “Bula” is the customary greeting in Fiji meaning “health” and no matter who or where you are, this greeting is bestowed upon you with a smile.

We quickly found a bus to take us on the 2 hour bus ride to The Beachouse near Koralevu located on what’s known as the coral coast. The bus ride was an eyeopener for the boys as they observed the villages we drove through made up of small houses usually out of tin and in some cases woven bamboo walls. We saw countless games of impromptu rugby and volleyball along the way and may have taken a few breaths as our bus careened around the mountainous roads.

The Beachouse is an intriguing ‘backpackers resort’ and certainly offers budget accommodation given the cost of most other places in Fiji. We learned quickly about ‘Fiji Time’ as a guide for the Jungle Trek which was slated to leave at 10:00 am, informed us they were leaving and when we checked the time, it was 1:00 pm. Given the beautiful views, lovely outdoor spaces, and warmer than your bathwater ocean, this is not a trial – it only a leads to a few moments of uncertainty for those of us accustomed to being at a place at a set time.

View from The Beachouse beach

This is our first time staying at resort style accommodation without our own kitchen and it certainly is an adjustment. However, we have thoroughly enjoyed meeting so many people from different places as well as being able to allow the boys more independence in determining where they want to be during the day with everything available to them. Aside from wading into the water and snorkelling, kayaking, or stand up paddle boarding, the boys have greatly enjoyed meeting new friends from Australia and have played countless games of Home Free and Hide and Seek.

A highlight of any country is meeting the local people and we were blessed during our Jungle Trek with our guide, Jiuta, who shared first and foremost his faith, his pride in both his village and country, history of the area, knowledge of innumerable plant and tree varieties in the jungle, and finally our destination, beautiful crystal clear waterfalls cascading into a most picturesque pool. Jiuta also arranged for us to enjoy a lovely eggplant curry prepared by his niece. Providing lunch to those Jiuta guides through the jungle is their sole form of income and it was an eyeopener to see their simple existence in a shelter with woven bamboo walls and an outdoor tap for water from the nearby stream. At one point on our return trip from the waterfalls, Jiuta disappeared into the trees and later emerged with a fresh pineapple he had just picked to accompany our lunch. It was a privilege to see what daily life is like in another part of the world.

The trek to and from wasn’t without its interesting points given the heavy rain that had fallen a few days prior and our shoes may now be a bit of a different colour; but it certainly was an experience we all enjoyed. Perhaps though, given the number of slips, trips and falls in the mud, the boys memory of a few points may differ from that of their parents.

As we were here for New Year’s as well (our first in a different country), we were curious how it would play out. It’s safe to say that following our late evening supper, Kelly and I judged that our family would have an early night as per usual, and were asleep by 11:00 pm. New Year’s Eve has never been a huge point of celebration in our families – we usually enjoy boardgames and if we’re lucky, we might make it to midnight. Nonetheless, we were most excited to get up on New Year’s Day with the prospect of our trip to Yanuca Island, a 45 minute boat ride from The Beachouse.

After marvelling at the many flying fish on the trip to the island, we were greeted by a most amazing and tropical view: white sandy beaches replete with washed up coral and shells, along with gorgeous palm and flame trees. We all moved immediately into the water for 5 hours of snorkelling fun. Kenny, a local Fijian, took it upon himself to teach the boys how to fish with their hands – the shrieks of “I almost caught one!” filled the air, and there’s no doubt that the boys will have stories of the fish that got away.

Catching fish!

Kenny and the boys

These fish were NOT caught by the boys

To be able to step off of the beach and into sparkling turquoise waters was beautiful in and of itself. Snorkelling amongst the many small coral reefs and being able to spot a poisonous stonefish, a large eel, countless rainbow and parrot fish, along with many varieties I cannot name was outstanding! All of us have sore necks this morning and may have found some spots where we missed applying sunscreen!

Although Fiji is supposed to get more rain during this time of year, the weather has been perfect though without air-conditioning, it is more than a little warm at night! We are in this area until the January 12th and are anticipating the arrival of Kelly’s parents and niece, whereupon, more field trips will no doubt begin. Exactly when, who knows…we are after all, on Fiji time.

Let’s Chat(eau) Part Deux

While the sheer size and grandeur of the architecture of Chateau de Chambord makes it worthwhile seeing, it was our second day spent at Chateau de Chenonceau which stands out in my mind. Ethan and Anderson were united in their view that they preferred the much more masculine, action packed events of the previous day, though I trust that one day, their exposure to the romance of the architecture, gardens etc, will stand them in good stead. Kelly – being the incredibly balanced fellow he is, admitted to preferring Chenonceau due to the history surrounding it and the setting.

As much of the chateau was designed by women, I wondered prior to arrival if I would notice. Suffice it to say – I fell in love with Chenonceau. Delicate yet strong; elaborate but practical; set apart, yet with a history of supporting those in need – Chenonceau provides one with every opportunity to appreciate the beauty, wonder at the story, and smile at the intrigue.

The gallery spans the width of the Loire River.

A view from the opposite side.

Built in the early 1500s, the original building did not cross the river. It wasn’t until King Henri II’s donation of the castle to his favourite and much older, Diane de Poitiers that she designed a bridge to be built across the river. Queen Catherine de Medici was less than pleased with Diane’s involvement and following King Henri II’s death in 1559, Queen Catherine promptly took it back from Diane sending her to Chateau de Chaumont (which she knew she hated).  It was during this time when Queen Catherine had the famous Gallery built on top of Diane’s bridge.

The famous Gallery.

In the 1800s, Louise Dupin owned the chateau and brought all the thinkers of the time – Voltaire, Rousseau, Montesquieu etc. to spend time there. She is a woman I plan on doing some further research about as her vision of Chenonceau, treatment of others, and leadership as a woman during a time where men dominated most aspects, is fascinating.

During World War I, the chateau was used as a hospital for wounded soldiers, and in World War II, due to it’s position on the river, was an important path for the french to flee from the German occupied areas. Both Kelly and I are hoping to find some further literature about the area during the two world wars – any recommendations?

As the boys put up with our ponderous exploration of the chateau, they had one thing which excited them – the maze! The boys did relatively well with moving through the chateau with quiet and calm, allowing them to save up all their energy for a rousing game of tag. Even the grounds crew working alongside the maze chuckled at our antics as the Pitman competitive spirits came out in full force. While the boys have never shown much interest in growing things back at home, I suspect the prospect of growing hedges for the purpose of designing a maze might catch their interest!

A-Maze-ing fun!

Given our short stay in the Loire area, we certainly pleased with our two spectacular days!  We’ve just finished possibly the longest drive of our entire year as we’re now in the Alsace region staying in Riquewihr. More posts to come!

Let’s Chat(eau)

Apologies for the title – but we can’t help ourselves when it comes to opportunities for a class play on words! We have since left our beloved house just outside of Quevillion and are back on the road. For the next 4 weeks we are staying a maximum of a week at any one place and admittedly, this creates a bit of anxiety for my homebody self. Nonetheless, it has been a fun challenge to find quality lodging reflective of the area we’re in at a reasonable price. Many an hour has been spent trolling the websites of Homeaway, Airbnb, and Frenchmaison.com I cannot imagine the cost of travelling in France in the summer as rates are considerably more and for a family, could certainly be prohibitive. In our case, we are currently in low season and are still enjoying 20 degree weather though the sun may peek somewhat less frequently.

Currently, we’re staying in the small village of Chaumont sur Loire located in the famous Loire Valley known for its grandiose chateaus. Our apartment is quaint and replete with the traditional exposed beams, blue window shutters, and teensy spiral staircase. We even have our own herb garden!

The main floor is the size of our living room at home!

Driving through the countryside along a road with brief glimpses of the Loire River, swans floating serenely by, and countless sunflower fields, we arrived at our first chateau – Chateau de Chambord www.chambord.org/en.  Sunday’s weather was rather wet – okay it was a downpour, but as we had purchased tickets to the Equestrian Spectacular Show  the evening prior, we were all in. Despite the rain, this show was well worth it! Trick riding, swashbuckling, dressage, romance – it was all included and had us leaving with big smiles. I of course, felt compelled to encourage Kelly to become involved in all things equestrian, along with growing his hair, wearing white frilly shirts, and tight pants!

One of the many fields of sunflowers bordered by wild flowers.

One of the performers (and his rider).

These folks and their horses were troopers in the pouring rain.

Following the show, we had planned to rent bikes and tour the grounds, but by this time the sheets of water falling from the sky deterred us and we switched plans to tour the inside of the chateau. You can imagine the joy our boys expressed at their new schedule!

Their clear JOY! One would think they would be happy to be out of the rain!

Chambord itself is imposing and it’s difficult to comprehend the grandeur without and within. It is evident that the desire to be “set apart” by lodgings most definitely replaced any type of practicality as every room description revealed issues with heating. Chambord was commissioned by Francois I in 1519 as a hunting lodge and was completed 28 years later. Leonardo da Vinci is rumoured to have designed many aspects of the chateau including a double spiral staircase at the center of the building.

Immense

 

Looking back at Kelly as we each go up separate staircases.

Stories of intrigue, royal influence, and competition swirl around and I was struck by a history of leaders constantly trying to navigate the muddy waters of political influence, planning (plotting), and actual care for the people (also severely lacking). The challenge of “keeping up with the Joneses'” is a theme throughout history merely with another name inserted.

As the rain had finally dissipated, we ventured to rent bikes (no helmets are available!), and tour the grounds. The boys have sorely missed their bikes and were more than a little excited to generate some of their own speed.

Anderson’s day was made as he finally got to ride a bike again!

Deciding to access all that was available at Chambord, we had also booked a horse drawn carriage ride. As we walked up to the pick up area, the boys were quietly grumbling at the prospects of riding in a large wagon filled with “old” tourists for 45 minutes. They were soon overjoyed to hear that we would be riding in a small carriage and it would only be our family! We loved our ride through through the closed off forests filled with wild boar and deer. Wild boar really look like black bears from far off…with larger noses. It was great fun to see these beasts in action grubbing about the dirt. A full day to be sure!

 

Impressions

I cannot convey how truly overwhelmed I am at the opportunity and beauty that surrounds our family. While I recognize that regions of France certainly have varied reputations, the Normandy region is an incredible area filled with gorgeous national forested parks, seaside beaches, and fertile farmland. People are friendly and gracious.

Yesterday, we ventured out to Dieppe and Kelly will be blogging about that sombre experience. We are working on our French and are determined not to use “Parlez-vous anglais?” in any situation though I must admit I feel so intimidated in the “epicerie” (grocery story), but have learned the following:

1. In major grocery stores you weigh your fresh produce and print out a barcode on your own.

2. They serve “cheval” at major grocery stores. Yoiks?!!! No wonder Britain was scandalized by the news this past winter that many of their “beef” products were actually horse!

3. Wine and cider is unbelievably cheap and is a process and story to be celebrated as opposed to mindlessly consumed.

4. Milk is NOT refrigerated and yes, we may have walked repeatedly around the cooler section looking for milk!

French women have got something figured out – I don’t know what it is, but they have a certain understanding about the subtleties of what it is to be a lovely woman. I noticed this in London as well, but there is much more attention paid to dressing well and for occasions than one notices in North America. To my eye, (granted for others, it was sheer vanity), women take the time to look after themselves and those around them paying attention to detail. I think I have more than a few things to learn in regards to not being the harried housewife and career woman – rather enjoy the gifts God has given, and pay attention to the details. They tell us more than we think if we take the time.

The boys watching the sunset over the Seine this evening…

So how excited are you?

I find I am asked this question at least 4 times a week and if speaking with people whom I haven’t seen for a week, the frequency most definitely increases. Officially, this is the first post on our family blog and I feel the pressure of the “profound factor.” In response to the “how excited are you?” question, I realize that we will be provided with no end of material for blog entries. At this moment in time, I believe the question and blog post would more aptly be “So how overwhelmed are you?” Excited? Yes! Curious? For sure! Apprehensive? That too! But when you really think about it, moving from place to place for 11 months will involve some considerable development of my flexibility, patience, resilience, and the all important “Mom needs to chill out.”

In reviewing what I’ve just written, I realize that if I were speaking the above, I would have had to make the quotation hand signal 4 times in a short period – I promise folks, the writing style will improve.

Bottom line, our family is beyond excited for this next year of travelling the world, but in the moment, right now – we truly have no idea what to expect. We have many hopes and plans, but part of the joy of this whole adventure is the excitement leading up to it. I hope that as we travel, people will enjoy learning with us, providing advice in the comments section, and considering what you’re doing to put yourself in whatever context that will compel those around to ask you “So how excited are you?”