Barcelona

Having been in Spain from October 18th to November 8th, I’m a bit behind in blogging…we’ve been too busy enjoying the sand, surf, and sun along with the hustle and bustle of Barcelona. Arriving in Spain and adjusting to a new language and feel for completing daily tasks took some focus on our parts. Our first three days were spent staying at an apartment in the Sants neighbourhood of Barcelona. This is not a tourist area of Barcelona and we enjoyed our glimpse into the daily routines of Catalonians. The daily schedule of a siesta and late evening family and community activities is most definitely a departure from our North American one – though it was especially wonderful to see yet again examples of how community is important even in a large city. Everyone comes out to the central squares in the evening. Children play, families visit – a laid-back and friendly atmosphere prevails. Given that everyone in the area lives in apartment buildings, Barcelona living is not made for those who are determined to remain independent and covet personal space; your wash is out for all to see (literally) so embrace it.

View from the back of our apartment in Barcelona Sants

During both the 3 days we stayed in Barcelona and the three additional visits into the city from our stay in Sitges, we discovered dramatically different neighbourhoods each with its own feel. La Ramblas was spectacular due to the sheer number of people strolling along and the many waiters attempting to cajole you to try their watered down ‘tourist in Spain’ fare. Moving off La Ramblas, we were quickly swept down innumerable side streets filled with shops no larger than a small kitchen selling everything from locally made shoes to (what else), knock off football jerseys. The Gothic Quarter (named for it’s architecture) is vast and I would say worth more of our time given the Roman history still evident as well as the many squares where perhaps the food is more authentic Catalonian fare.

My parents and I were able to take in a traditional Spanish guitar concert by Manuel Gonzalez in the Capella de la Sang – Church of Santa Maria del Pi (14th century). After a 40 minute train ride in from our smaller town of Sitges, we found ourselves in a beautiful square, eating outstanding tapas, and at every turn remarking on some new detail that had come to light.

Church of Santa Maria del Pi

 

The concert was an opportunity to float through some of the musical history of Spain and Catalonia in particular. The talent and commitment of the guitarist evident and his joy in sharing his music with the audience evident. We all had smiles on our faces and enjoyed his two encore performances, specifically the final one he called “An Interrupted Romance” where the music moved between a traditional Spanish love song and random popular pop, country, and heavy metal songs. A gift given to all of us in a beautiful location with wonderful people. I was personally thrilled to share some of our different experiences with my parents and watch their response to the beauty around us.

As already detailed by Kelly, we were in Barcelona to pick up tickets for Ethan’s big El Classico ticket surprise, but during that visit we also were able to take in some of the most spectacular architecture for which Barcelona is renowned.  Antoni Gaudi, famous for his incredible and distinct designs – even the most disinterested in architecture would pause to comment. I am no expert in architecture and so do not wish to misstep in my descriptions; however, suffice it to say that various lines and unique colours of the buildings combine to stop me in my proverbial tracks.

Initially I felt that we had seen what we needed to of Barcelona, but on second thought and following our final evening supper before leaving on the night train for Venice, more time needs to be spent discovering the nooks and crannies. I have no doubt we’ll be back.

Date Day

It was Kelly’s 45th birthday on the 19th and he enjoyed a 3 day celebration of outings, but strangely enough, no cake. Of particular note was our full day as a couple in Paris as Daryll obligingly spent the day with the boys (they were quite happy to see us go).

Unfortunately, and for a reason we could not determine, the train schedule between Rouen and Paris had changed for Friday. Wanting to experience an evening in Paris and not return as early required driving 1 1/2 hours to Versailles, catching the train there and of course driving back. Not as convenient as a direct high speed train ride, but still feasible.

A side note about Versailles – we do not prefer it. I know the amazing Chateau Versailles is located there and we have now driven past it 3 times.  Last Sunday, we drove the 1 1/2 hours and like rookies, thought it wouldn’t be as busy given it is September. When the travel book says “avoid Sundays,” they mean year round. WOW! We found a parking spot, walked up to the gates, found the public facilities and turned around. Yes – my stubborness shone through as we drove that length of time, only to drive back. Granted we took a different route to explore the countryside, but in true Pitman fashion we were all okay with avoiding large groups. The boys made not one complaint about the drive as they were more relieved not to have to stand in line for the length of time it would have taken.

Kelly and I have spoken at length about the differences between London and Paris which apparently is an oft discussed topic over here.  G.K. Chesterson wrote “London is a riddle. Paris is an explanation.” I would have to concur as there is a pulse in London rather undefinable. I don’t know that one finds answers in London, rather more questions especially given the layers of history combined with a thriving business/cosmopolitan feel. Paris on the other hand, is all about offering one the spaces and places to explore and understand life, appreciate beauty, and solidify beliefs. Paris is not about accomplishments, but rather appreciation. London, however, can certainly make one feel as though there is much to be ‘done.’ I would be curious if any of you who have been to both cities, have similar thoughts or other perceptions. For those of you who know me, I will leave you with the question of which city I felt more at ease in.

Although Kelly and I have been together non stop since July, this day was different as we haven’t had a day that was about experiencing incredible sites together and concentrating on our relationship.  This was indeed a treat. We spent a great deal of time walking along the Seine, the Champs de Elysee, and then into the Tuileries park where we had lunch as well as enjoyed sitting, watching people go by. The statues in this area seem to be unmatched to the beauty of the flowers, grounds, and architecture surrounding it, but they are interesting nonetheless.

The Tuileries – a lovely place to sit and contemplate.

The Louvre

After finding a shortcut into the Louvre (security guards let us into an entrance meant only for groups), we determined that we would be returning with the boys on another day, and so did some reconnaissance as to what would be best for them, and of course made our way to some of the classics. Both Kelly and I far prefer the French renaissance painters to any of the Italian artists. It’s amazing to to see the differences when looking at many pieces of art at one time. I didn’t prefer the Mona Lisa which was mostly due to the incredible glut of humans in front of it. However, I’ve seen it, and I much prefer the second painting posted below:

I LOVE tour groups…

My favourite! She has a story to tell!

Other areas of the Louvre were virtually empty and we enjoyed our wanderings though most definitely, this is one place deserving of MANY visits and even more research prior to those visits to really do it justice.

We were then off to the district of Montmarte for the evening to see the Sacre Coeur – an incredible cathedral on the highest hill in Paris. We rode the train and I enjoyed being surrounded by regular Parisians and of course made up random stories in my head as we rode the train away from all the tourists. Montmarte is an interesting hodge podge of tourist shops and local art and bistros. The Sacre Coeur dominates the area as you’re forever walking on a side hill. The area leading up to the cathedral was filled with rather persistent hawkers ; Kelly is very good at sending a message that we do not wish to buy anything. As we arrived around 6:00 pm, we were in the midst of mass and walking through the cathedral reading the Bible verses, hearing the incredible singing of the nuns, and taking a moment to reflect again on our faith was unbelievable. I was moved to tears by the beauty around us and as I write this, am remembering the events of the past few days in Pakistan and Kenya. Such horror, pain and suffering – it is truly incomprehensible.

Climbing the 300 steps to the top of the building, was well worth the breathtaking view. We spent as much time as we could before closing sitting up in the tower and had it essentially to ourselves. The photos are self explanatory.

View from the Sacre Coeur

Why go up the Eiffel Tower when you can have it in your view?

I cannot describe how amazing it is to be able to see these fascinating places and views with my husband. This day was amazing as we both soaked in the beauty around us and spent important time together as a couple.

Originally, we had planned to take a night time cruise along the Seine, but as we returned to the main area of Paris, we again realized that everyone else had the same idea. In keeping with the theme, we opted for the much more solitary night time walk along the Seine and loved every minute of it (except observing the rats running to and fro!).

I suspect that everyone expects to go up the Eiffel Tower as part of a trip to Paris, but really the rest of Paris is flat. So, we decided that we would much rather take some photos of the structure dedicated to the beauty of Paris from the ground. I don’t think our view from the top would have been much of an improvement on what we saw from the Sacre Coeur.

Captivating

I found this poem by Linda Harnett, and found it to reflect most accurately, our day together in Paris.

Rekindle

Why don’t we meet up in Paris?
Rekindle romance once again,
Let’s stand side by side,
In the moonlight,
Sail away on a boat on the Seine,

They say it’s romantic in Paris,
I wonder if that’s really true,
Is it something to do with the weather?
Or something,
To do with the view?

Why don’t we meet up in Paris?
Take a train, a boat or a plane,
Make our way to the streets,
Of Montmartre,
Rekindle the flame once again.

Linda Harnett

Balancing Act

Paris – a city full of whispers of beauty as well as tales of adventure and conflict. Yesterday, we spent a lovely overcast and slightly drizzly day exploring. After learning from our family excursions into London, we knew that attempting to take on the city by walking the entire area of key sites is not recommended. However, the actual area of Paris is 7 times less than that of a city like Edmonton and this might lead you into thinking that you could access all sites with ease on your own two feet. And you could. You would not however, want to attempt that while trying to balance the interests and energy levels of a 10, 7, 6, and 4 year old. Our friend Daryll and his daughters also joined us for the day and I’m pleased to report it as a stellar success.

View of the Eiffel Tower from the Arc de Triomphe

Ethan enjoyed “petting” the carp at Cineaqua.

When travelling to so many iconic cities and sites, it is easy to become overwhelmed and frankly, slide into a checklist approach where one checks an event or site off a list as opposed to really engaging in the travel, the pulse of the community or people, and even (my literary side glows dimly here), the voice of the amazing structures and stories they have to tell. By taking numerous breaks, bringing snacks, allowing everyone the time and space needed to take in the view and information, and planning some less “cultural” stops (Golden Arches), we reached a happy medium for all. For those of you with younger children contemplating Paris, I’m including our list of places and activities:

• Arrived via train from Rouen and walked to the Eiffel Tower – toured grounds (we did not go up – as it was quite cloudy)
• Walked to Cineaqua (Paris Aquarium) which has over 500 species of fish and a large shark tank which caught everyone’s interest. It took us about an hour and a half to tour and we were almost entirely alone the entire time.
• Walked to av des Champs-Elysees and went to the top of the Arc de Triomphe.
• Enjoyed high quality French cuisine at the Golden Arches.
• Walked down to the Seine and took a Batobus river cruise. This is a hop on hop off service which was perfect and cost effective.
• Toured the Cathedral of Notre Dame thoroughly enjoying the beautiful bells, gruesome gargoyles, and stained glass windows.
• Walked the Ile de la Cite and then got back on the Batobus to returned to av des Champs-Elysees where we caught the metro.
• Purchased food at a grocery store, plunked down on our coats in the middle of the square in front of Gare St. Lazare (train station) and enjoyed watching the people go by until it was time to catch our train.

The crew on the Batobus

This picture does not do justice to the sheer size of the structure. We went to the top – well worth the stairs.

The skies cleared off later in the day and Kelly snapped a photo while on the Batobus

Notice Anderson’s expression and the location of his hand.

All told we left our house at 7:15 am to catch our train and arrived back at the house at 11:00 pm. We managed to escape major tears and meltdowns. Paris in September is gentle with those who tour it. We weren’t tossed to and fro by crowds, the temperature was perfect, and were able to appreciate the beauty around us- success!

England Travels

I have some incredible photos to post from our travels to Tantallon Castle and St. Abb’s head in Scotland; however, we are currently staying with lovely new friends we met through our friend, Daryll Plantinga. Lizzy and Mike live in Leigh-On-Sea (right on the Thames estuary) and Mike commutes into London where he walks past the Tower of London each day! It’s sometimes difficult for us mortal tourists to imagine people actually living daily life around the sites millions travel to see. We have so appreciated them allowing our family to crash in possibly the largest tent ever in their back garden. For those who know me and my history of tenting, you will appreciate when I share that I have had two full nights sleep!

To more exciting things – yesterday was a full day in London with the family. We had already determined that we would be looking at spending two full days if not more in the city which solved some of the potential to feel rushed.

Taking the train right into downton London from Leigh-On-Sea, we wandered by the tower of London and then toured the Tower Bridge which is far more scenic than the more famously named London Bridge. The displays contained within the higher walkways outline the history of bridges from around the world and highlight many of the spectacular creations world wide. It would be intriguing to set travel plans according to bridges.

Following this, Kelly and the boys spent time exploring every inch of the HMS Belfast, a destroyer which saw action in World War II. All three were enthralled with the ship and it’s gigantic guns. Bailey and I wandered into a variety of shops in the area and discovered Borough Market – a place heaving with people, sounds, smells, and stories. The food vendors, speciality jellies, cheeses, wines, and Kelly’s favourite – cheese and potatoes were a joy to tour and consider which tasty treats to try. I managed to find the juciest, 3 cm blackberries for £1 and immediately devoured them! When the boys joined us, we continued to wander through the entire area and eventually made our way along the Thames to the London Eye. The entire south shore is a great place to walk along as you pass many museums, the Globe, theaters, and buskers. When we got to the Eye, Ethan despaired that we would never make it through the line up and it took some cajoling, but we were soon in line for tickets and convinced him it would be worth it.

First of all – it was worth it! Secondly, the line was daunting to be sure, but in all actuality, we were only in line for 15 minutes total which given the que, was fantastic! The sights of London from above were breathtaking and helped us further plan our day for tomorrow! We will be off to explore the Parliment Buildings, Buckingham Palace, St. Paul’s Cathedral, and the Natural History Museum. A full day to be sure. Bailey is keen to see London at night and so we will be staying a bit later tomorrow to fulfill that hope.

Dublin

You’ll notice the never ending theme of “we thought we would do this, but then…” For instance, we thought we would drive to a suburb of Dublin, park and take the train in as many have commented on the challenges of driving and parking in downtown Dublin. However, without wifi access to do some research, we found ourselves taking some time consuming detours to find a train station. When we got to the one we wanted, the train had just left and another one wasn’t to come for another hour. Our kids were great sports and we took the potentially fatal attitude of “how bad can it really be?” and drove into Dublin. I’m happy to report that driving and parking in downtown Dublin is absolutely not an issue (most likely because Kelly is an exceptional driver and I have figured out our handy dandy sat-nav). 

We promptly wandered off to St. Stephen’s Green for some photo-ops and Kelly and the boys remained there to play some football (soccer). A boy (Louis) noticed Ethan and his football, and promptly asked Ethan if they could play. The boys enjoyed themselves immensely and I don’t know that the significance of where they were playing will quite soak into until they recall this trip later. 

Ethan and Louis using Rock, Paper, Scissors to decide first possession.

The obligatory family photo.

Bailey and I, free of the male contingent, promptly wandered off to Grafton Street, home of countless shops, buskers, and rich people watching opportunities. Dublin is significantly different than Belfast in its more international feel. We wandered through Trinity College which is a campus I would love to spend more time in – I was impressed when I came as a university student in 1998, and was enthralled now as well. Both Bailey and I have been working our way through historical fiction set in the areas we are traveling and enjoyed walking through the areas referenced in our books. 

The drive returning to Portaferry was much faster than our morning trek due to both less traffic, and fewer detours. We were able to enjoy a stunning sunset as we waited for our 5 minute ferry ride across the lough to our loft. A great day!