Au Revoir

After 48 days, over 6000 km on our vehicle, 6 legs of train travel, and 6 homes in 6 regions, we have now left France. Without a doubt, all of us preferred our time in the Normandy region the most; it was also the place in which we spent the most time. Perhaps our preference is related to the pace and feel of a longer stay; however, the fantastic coast lines, beautiful forested parks, history, food, cities and villages, all combine to bind our loyalty to the area.

Like Canada, France has beautiful differences in all of its regions and people in are proud of the heritage reflected within each of them. This was especially the case in the Alsace region. After many interactions with wonderful people, we can confidently say that people in France are friendly, helpful, and patient – specifically when we butchered French pronunciation. On a separate note, we frequently joked with the boys that if ever they stood still in France, they would be sure to be tagged or peed on. Graffiti is everywhere even in rural areas seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Leaning against a wall is not recommended!

Our final stop prior to leaving France was a 4 day stay in Avignon. This most historical city filled with intrigue, political and religious conflict is fascinating. We stayed within the walled portion of the city and greatly enjoyed our daily meandering walks through the narrow streets. You’ll notice above, a photograph of the Pont du Avignon, a famous bridge which once spanned 22 arches as opposed to the current 4. We also toured the Pope’s Palace – a strikingly formidable but also beautiful structure with incredible frescoes.

 

Our hands down favourite however, was the Pont du Gard – a portion of Roman aqueduct which is still standing and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This engineering feat was part of a system transporting water over 50 kilometres to the city of Nimes. Incredibly, the difference in height from one end of the Pont du Gard to the other is less than 3 cm and the entire span of the 50 km aqueduct transported over 44,000,000 imp. gallons of water per day. This, in the 1st century AD!

The structure is beautiful in appearance with graceful sandstone spanning the River Gardon. As we walked around the surrounding area, the smell of thyme, lavender, and sage wafted about. We even found olive trees much to the boy’s delight. The River Gardon is wonderfully clear and amidst the white sandstone on its banks, creates a striking contrast. This is not an area to rush through and we spent hours scrambling about, peering into the river looking for fish, and simply enjoying the history and magnificence of the place.

Au revoir France. Hola Spain!

Visual Speak

The written word can provide clarity and depth. It can also distract and clutter. This post is a visual compilation of the past week. Enjoy – we certainly have.

Mont Blanc Tunnel

Cannes

Monaco

A rare photo with Kelly

The boys preferred Monaco

View from the Cap d’Antibes

Best of friends

Travel Technicalities

Given inconsistent wifi access, I now have a mammoth entry to complete and have decided to share a bit about the technical side of our travels. Travelling with a family of four involves some serious work and planning and I really do mean that. I know at this moment, you may be thinking “Seriously Pitmans – you’re travelling the world, save your ‘work wingeing’ for when you’re back in the cold north working again.” But I ask you to put the judgement aside and hopefully benefit from some of these reflections during a time when you too decide to take on world travel.

Upon leaving Chamonix 4 days ago, we were excited to drive through the Mont Blanc Tunnel, an incredible feat of engineering where a road tunnel links Chamonix, France and Courmayeur, Italy spanning a total distance of 11 611 meters.  I remember being excited as a child about tunnels the first time our family drove through the Roger’s Pass in British Columbia. Those tunnels now seem rather miniature after this drive, though I must admit, after the 5th km, the dull grey view speckled with blue and yellow lights, did become a tad dull. Nevertheless, the novelty of driving through a tunnel in one country and arriving in another, appealed to us and we soaked in the experience. Our pocket book also felt an impact as those were the most expensive 11 and a bit kilometres we’ve travelled – 40 Euros ($56 CAD). This was just the beginning as for the next 100 or so kilometres, we entered tunnel after tunnel and paid over 70 Euros ($98 CAD) in tolls. These are things, one doesn’t always budget for when discussing travel routes late at night. The train system in France is excellent and high speed, but our car rental has also been good to us as we’ve been able to drive in areas we would not have seen via train.

Our rental vehicle has served us well and we have paid approximately $1800 CAD for an SUV for the past 47 days and have travelled an extensive distance in France with convenience; however, it is prudent to consider the following side costs  when comparing to rail or air travel expenses or budgeting for travel in general:

1.  Gas Prices – for the cheapest gas prices, always fuel up at a Supermarket station as opposed to a gas station along the motorway – Up to 50 cents difference in price per litre!
2. Road Tolls – as indicated above, if you want to use the motorways for efficient travel, be prepared to pay. The tolls vary in areas and are not always dependent on the length of travel you may have completed. For example, driving for 1 hour via motor way in the Normandy region cost 10 Euro while driving 35 minutes in the south of France cost 2 Euro 90 cents. If making a round trip, expect to pay up to 20 Euro ($28 CAD) for a 220 km drive.
3. Parking – parking can be not only costly, but also difficult and time consuming to find depending on where you are.

Today, we went into Nice to purchase what we thought was the best deal for our next month of travel to and within Spain and on to Venice, Italy. Kelly had found the Global Euroail Pass available to Canadians which allows for 10 days of travel in the space of two months for our family of 4 at a cost of approximately 1700 Euro ($2300 CAD). Given that we have 8 days of travel within the next month, and having looked up separate fares throughout multiple countries (Spain, France, and Italy), this appeared to be our best ‘deal.’ However, when we went to purchase at the Nice SNCF station, the ticket agent indicated concern as the Eurorail pass has many complications added to it especially when travelling in France. He mentioned that foreigners who purchase this pass online are frequently surprised by additional fees for various trains dependent on location and availability. Additionally, one has to reserve seats on certain trains up to 3 weeks in advance which can leave travellers in a lurch when trying to be flexible. His recommendation for us was to book our tickets as we went especially for specific sections where you can save money by purchasing tickets within the country as opposed to booking everything in advance and paying more in France for a ticket to Italy.

The next technicality I want to explore is that of arranging accommodations. Kelly and I have a system where he arranges for travel and I look after accommodations. This has worked out well though, there are times when we’re trying to keep as much flexibility as possible, and I find it to be quite stressful. That would be now. When arriving at a new location despite all the reading or research one might do, there is always room for surprise. We have greatly enjoyed the connections we have made to specific areas of France which do not necessarily follow the travel recommendations of Lonely Planet or Tripadvisor… Consequently, there are many factors to be considered when booking accommodation especially if it’s for more than 2 nights. Here are the considerations I use now:

1. Location, Location, Location – always consider what you hope to see and do in an area and ensure that your rental location supports those activities. I’ve also become quite good at checking Google maps for location to ensure we’re not next to a major roadway or look for appropriate green spaces, grocery stores, walking trails, etc.
2. Wifi Access – not all rentals have wifi access and as we don’t have a cell phone currently, this has become crucial especially when continually booking and planning for accommodation in the future.
3. Space – depending on what we’re doing in the area, space becomes more, or less, important. For example, in Cannes, we are spending little time in our rental and it is   less than 600 sq feet. However, the house we rented outside of Rouen where we spent a month, was over 1300 sq feet and was situated on over 3 acres of land.
4. Cost – while cost guides my search to a certain degree, it varies again depending on activities in the area and associated costs.  It is not always true that when you pay more, you get more as I have found outstanding accommodations for excellent prices through http://www.homeaway.com, http://www.airbnb.com, and http://www.frenchmaison.com. However, I always carefully read the reviews of other users when balancing out cost, appearance, location etc. Don’t get sucked in to the cheapest place you can find – you may still be getting duped! Gone are the days where Kelly and I look for the cheapest hostel room available! It is important to our family’s ‘wah’ (we use this phrase regularly in reference to how we are feeling about the day or state of being) to be comfortable, secure, and clean. Best value for money is important. I also always enquire about any additional fees – per person fees, linen fees, wifi fees, cleaning fees… these must be considered as well.
5. Appearance & Beds – a good night’s sleep is important! Thus far I have been incredibly successful in finding us great places; however, we have had a few nights of discomfort. Nothing horrendous, just questionable. I also try to consider the architecture of the place and we have stayed in places wonderfully reflective of the area’s history. Consider the example of our apartment in a 400 year old house in Riquewihr, France. There wasn’t a straight wall in the house and it was decorated with vintage Alsace decor – absolutely beautiful!

Our travels in the French Riveria and Monaco have been lovely, though very different from the rest of France. We have all enjoyed beautiful sun and stand out as tourists as we consider the 22 degrees celsius to be warm while French nationals dress in thick sweaters and pants. Having now booked our stay in Avignon, train travel from Avignon to Barcelona, apartment in Barcelona, travel to Sitges, beautiful oceanside house in Sitges followed by another lovely house on the Costa Blanca in Spain and then a week in Venice, I am feeling much more at ease for the next month and am so thrilled to share some of the sights and family time with my parents who are coming over to meet us in Spain for the next 3 weeks! Bonsoir!

Denouement

Walking through the Foret de la Londe along a quiet path which is covered, appropriately I suppose, with fallen maple leaves, one comes upon a small memorial to the Canadian forces that fought a three-day battle over that ground some 69 years ago. The Canadian forces were pushing forward to liberate Rouen and close out the Normandy chapter of the war. The Germans, as ever, were stubborn in defence, and over 600 Canadians became casualties.

Battle of Foret de la Londe memorial

The discovery of this memorial, and subsequent evidence of Canada’s involvement in the liberation of France in the Second World War, came about following a visit to the Bretteville-sur-Laize Canadian war cemetery, located south of the city of Caen.  My friend Daryll and I noticed a surprising number of men had been killed between August 26-29, 1944.  I knew that Rouen had been liberated on the 30th of August and so believed that these men must have been part of that effort.  I was humbled to discover that the battle took place, and their lives ended, mere miles from where our family was staying in the Rouen area.

Our family (I include Daryll) then undertook to visit the battlefield and follow the “Maple Leaf Up” route, albeit in reverse,  from Rouen to Falaise.  The drive reveals evidence of the Canadian effort; towns liberated, memorials to Canadian soldiers, Canadian flags, and disabled German vehicles.  Over 5000 Canadians lost their lives to liberate France in the Second World War.  D-Day was a remarkable achievement; a historical turning point that deserves awe and remembrance.  It was also only the beginning of the Normandy campaign.  The denouement at Foret de la Londe serves as a reminder of that, one that my family and I now appreciate all the more.

German Tiger tank at Vimoutiers

 

Snow Day!

The view up the gondola Aiguille du Midi.

We decided to go back on our promise to avoid winter for the entire year this morning as we took the gondola up to the Aiguille du Midi, a mere 3842 meters above sea level. As we drove into the parking lot, Kelly was again reminded of a moment in his childhood where he refused to cross a suspension bridge with his family claiming impending doom. Ethan emphatically declared “If you guys want to die on the side of a mountain today, you go ahead, but I’m going to wait in the car!” After a brief conversation, we were soon free of 150 Euros and owned 4 tickets for the gondola.

Mont Blanc is the tallest mountain in Europe, outside of Russia and to provide some context for Canadians, it is approximately 3000 feet taller than Mount Robson. It is part of the French-Rhone Alpes and at the peak, one can look over the border into Italy and down the mountain range towards Switzerland. It certainly was brisk at the top, but the heat of the sun was warm on our faces. Walking up the see-through stairs, we all had to take a few breaths as we convinced ourselves that the view at the top would be worth it. Hats off to the amazing outdoorsmen and women who were trekking in the deep snow along narrow ridges. Only 10 mountains in the world exceed  Mont Blanc in terms of topographic prominence (height differential between a mountain and its surrounding topography).  It is truly a sight to be seen.

Notice the climbers…

Every which way we turned we were surrounded by beauty!

The view down to Chamonix and Les Houches where we are staying.

Having been up the gondola in Jasper, I must say that this experience far surpasses the view. Ethan however, noted that he preferred our trekking around at the top of the Whistler’s mountain due to his joy in searching for marmots.

The Chamonix area is breathtaking in its mix between startling cliffs and rolling green meadows. We drove around trying to find a particular trail head, and ended up at one we thought would work. As we pulled up, we noticed that it said “La Crete” which guaranteed we would hike there as that is the name of the town I lived in until I was 16. La Crete means ‘Rooster’s Comb’ and we were certainly hiking up the comb of the mountain as on either side were two beautiful flowing creek beds. We’ve found that the boys share many of their thoughts while walking, and today was no exception – it was great to listen to them making sense of historical events during World War I and II. We have spent a number of days tracking down random tanks left around France from World War II – they are truly becoming history buffs.

We ended our day in this meadow. I may force the boys to read “Heidi.”

Today has been a day of many blessings. The creation around us is beyond comprehension and we thank God for this opportunity!

Let’s Chat(eau) Part Deux

While the sheer size and grandeur of the architecture of Chateau de Chambord makes it worthwhile seeing, it was our second day spent at Chateau de Chenonceau which stands out in my mind. Ethan and Anderson were united in their view that they preferred the much more masculine, action packed events of the previous day, though I trust that one day, their exposure to the romance of the architecture, gardens etc, will stand them in good stead. Kelly – being the incredibly balanced fellow he is, admitted to preferring Chenonceau due to the history surrounding it and the setting.

As much of the chateau was designed by women, I wondered prior to arrival if I would notice. Suffice it to say – I fell in love with Chenonceau. Delicate yet strong; elaborate but practical; set apart, yet with a history of supporting those in need – Chenonceau provides one with every opportunity to appreciate the beauty, wonder at the story, and smile at the intrigue.

The gallery spans the width of the Loire River.

A view from the opposite side.

Built in the early 1500s, the original building did not cross the river. It wasn’t until King Henri II’s donation of the castle to his favourite and much older, Diane de Poitiers that she designed a bridge to be built across the river. Queen Catherine de Medici was less than pleased with Diane’s involvement and following King Henri II’s death in 1559, Queen Catherine promptly took it back from Diane sending her to Chateau de Chaumont (which she knew she hated).  It was during this time when Queen Catherine had the famous Gallery built on top of Diane’s bridge.

The famous Gallery.

In the 1800s, Louise Dupin owned the chateau and brought all the thinkers of the time – Voltaire, Rousseau, Montesquieu etc. to spend time there. She is a woman I plan on doing some further research about as her vision of Chenonceau, treatment of others, and leadership as a woman during a time where men dominated most aspects, is fascinating.

During World War I, the chateau was used as a hospital for wounded soldiers, and in World War II, due to it’s position on the river, was an important path for the french to flee from the German occupied areas. Both Kelly and I are hoping to find some further literature about the area during the two world wars – any recommendations?

As the boys put up with our ponderous exploration of the chateau, they had one thing which excited them – the maze! The boys did relatively well with moving through the chateau with quiet and calm, allowing them to save up all their energy for a rousing game of tag. Even the grounds crew working alongside the maze chuckled at our antics as the Pitman competitive spirits came out in full force. While the boys have never shown much interest in growing things back at home, I suspect the prospect of growing hedges for the purpose of designing a maze might catch their interest!

A-Maze-ing fun!

Given our short stay in the Loire area, we certainly pleased with our two spectacular days!  We’ve just finished possibly the longest drive of our entire year as we’re now in the Alsace region staying in Riquewihr. More posts to come!