Let’s Chat(eau)

Apologies for the title – but we can’t help ourselves when it comes to opportunities for a class play on words! We have since left our beloved house just outside of Quevillion and are back on the road. For the next 4 weeks we are staying a maximum of a week at any one place and admittedly, this creates a bit of anxiety for my homebody self. Nonetheless, it has been a fun challenge to find quality lodging reflective of the area we’re in at a reasonable price. Many an hour has been spent trolling the websites of Homeaway, Airbnb, and Frenchmaison.com I cannot imagine the cost of travelling in France in the summer as rates are considerably more and for a family, could certainly be prohibitive. In our case, we are currently in low season and are still enjoying 20 degree weather though the sun may peek somewhat less frequently.

Currently, we’re staying in the small village of Chaumont sur Loire located in the famous Loire Valley known for its grandiose chateaus. Our apartment is quaint and replete with the traditional exposed beams, blue window shutters, and teensy spiral staircase. We even have our own herb garden!

The main floor is the size of our living room at home!

Driving through the countryside along a road with brief glimpses of the Loire River, swans floating serenely by, and countless sunflower fields, we arrived at our first chateau – Chateau de Chambord www.chambord.org/en.  Sunday’s weather was rather wet – okay it was a downpour, but as we had purchased tickets to the Equestrian Spectacular Show  the evening prior, we were all in. Despite the rain, this show was well worth it! Trick riding, swashbuckling, dressage, romance – it was all included and had us leaving with big smiles. I of course, felt compelled to encourage Kelly to become involved in all things equestrian, along with growing his hair, wearing white frilly shirts, and tight pants!

One of the many fields of sunflowers bordered by wild flowers.

One of the performers (and his rider).

These folks and their horses were troopers in the pouring rain.

Following the show, we had planned to rent bikes and tour the grounds, but by this time the sheets of water falling from the sky deterred us and we switched plans to tour the inside of the chateau. You can imagine the joy our boys expressed at their new schedule!

Their clear JOY! One would think they would be happy to be out of the rain!

Chambord itself is imposing and it’s difficult to comprehend the grandeur without and within. It is evident that the desire to be “set apart” by lodgings most definitely replaced any type of practicality as every room description revealed issues with heating. Chambord was commissioned by Francois I in 1519 as a hunting lodge and was completed 28 years later. Leonardo da Vinci is rumoured to have designed many aspects of the chateau including a double spiral staircase at the center of the building.

Immense

 

Looking back at Kelly as we each go up separate staircases.

Stories of intrigue, royal influence, and competition swirl around and I was struck by a history of leaders constantly trying to navigate the muddy waters of political influence, planning (plotting), and actual care for the people (also severely lacking). The challenge of “keeping up with the Joneses'” is a theme throughout history merely with another name inserted.

As the rain had finally dissipated, we ventured to rent bikes (no helmets are available!), and tour the grounds. The boys have sorely missed their bikes and were more than a little excited to generate some of their own speed.

Anderson’s day was made as he finally got to ride a bike again!

Deciding to access all that was available at Chambord, we had also booked a horse drawn carriage ride. As we walked up to the pick up area, the boys were quietly grumbling at the prospects of riding in a large wagon filled with “old” tourists for 45 minutes. They were soon overjoyed to hear that we would be riding in a small carriage and it would only be our family! We loved our ride through through the closed off forests filled with wild boar and deer. Wild boar really look like black bears from far off…with larger noses. It was great fun to see these beasts in action grubbing about the dirt. A full day to be sure!

 

Date Day

It was Kelly’s 45th birthday on the 19th and he enjoyed a 3 day celebration of outings, but strangely enough, no cake. Of particular note was our full day as a couple in Paris as Daryll obligingly spent the day with the boys (they were quite happy to see us go).

Unfortunately, and for a reason we could not determine, the train schedule between Rouen and Paris had changed for Friday. Wanting to experience an evening in Paris and not return as early required driving 1 1/2 hours to Versailles, catching the train there and of course driving back. Not as convenient as a direct high speed train ride, but still feasible.

A side note about Versailles – we do not prefer it. I know the amazing Chateau Versailles is located there and we have now driven past it 3 times.  Last Sunday, we drove the 1 1/2 hours and like rookies, thought it wouldn’t be as busy given it is September. When the travel book says “avoid Sundays,” they mean year round. WOW! We found a parking spot, walked up to the gates, found the public facilities and turned around. Yes – my stubborness shone through as we drove that length of time, only to drive back. Granted we took a different route to explore the countryside, but in true Pitman fashion we were all okay with avoiding large groups. The boys made not one complaint about the drive as they were more relieved not to have to stand in line for the length of time it would have taken.

Kelly and I have spoken at length about the differences between London and Paris which apparently is an oft discussed topic over here.  G.K. Chesterson wrote “London is a riddle. Paris is an explanation.” I would have to concur as there is a pulse in London rather undefinable. I don’t know that one finds answers in London, rather more questions especially given the layers of history combined with a thriving business/cosmopolitan feel. Paris on the other hand, is all about offering one the spaces and places to explore and understand life, appreciate beauty, and solidify beliefs. Paris is not about accomplishments, but rather appreciation. London, however, can certainly make one feel as though there is much to be ‘done.’ I would be curious if any of you who have been to both cities, have similar thoughts or other perceptions. For those of you who know me, I will leave you with the question of which city I felt more at ease in.

Although Kelly and I have been together non stop since July, this day was different as we haven’t had a day that was about experiencing incredible sites together and concentrating on our relationship.  This was indeed a treat. We spent a great deal of time walking along the Seine, the Champs de Elysee, and then into the Tuileries park where we had lunch as well as enjoyed sitting, watching people go by. The statues in this area seem to be unmatched to the beauty of the flowers, grounds, and architecture surrounding it, but they are interesting nonetheless.

The Tuileries – a lovely place to sit and contemplate.

The Louvre

After finding a shortcut into the Louvre (security guards let us into an entrance meant only for groups), we determined that we would be returning with the boys on another day, and so did some reconnaissance as to what would be best for them, and of course made our way to some of the classics. Both Kelly and I far prefer the French renaissance painters to any of the Italian artists. It’s amazing to to see the differences when looking at many pieces of art at one time. I didn’t prefer the Mona Lisa which was mostly due to the incredible glut of humans in front of it. However, I’ve seen it, and I much prefer the second painting posted below:

I LOVE tour groups…

My favourite! She has a story to tell!

Other areas of the Louvre were virtually empty and we enjoyed our wanderings though most definitely, this is one place deserving of MANY visits and even more research prior to those visits to really do it justice.

We were then off to the district of Montmarte for the evening to see the Sacre Coeur – an incredible cathedral on the highest hill in Paris. We rode the train and I enjoyed being surrounded by regular Parisians and of course made up random stories in my head as we rode the train away from all the tourists. Montmarte is an interesting hodge podge of tourist shops and local art and bistros. The Sacre Coeur dominates the area as you’re forever walking on a side hill. The area leading up to the cathedral was filled with rather persistent hawkers ; Kelly is very good at sending a message that we do not wish to buy anything. As we arrived around 6:00 pm, we were in the midst of mass and walking through the cathedral reading the Bible verses, hearing the incredible singing of the nuns, and taking a moment to reflect again on our faith was unbelievable. I was moved to tears by the beauty around us and as I write this, am remembering the events of the past few days in Pakistan and Kenya. Such horror, pain and suffering – it is truly incomprehensible.

Climbing the 300 steps to the top of the building, was well worth the breathtaking view. We spent as much time as we could before closing sitting up in the tower and had it essentially to ourselves. The photos are self explanatory.

View from the Sacre Coeur

Why go up the Eiffel Tower when you can have it in your view?

I cannot describe how amazing it is to be able to see these fascinating places and views with my husband. This day was amazing as we both soaked in the beauty around us and spent important time together as a couple.

Originally, we had planned to take a night time cruise along the Seine, but as we returned to the main area of Paris, we again realized that everyone else had the same idea. In keeping with the theme, we opted for the much more solitary night time walk along the Seine and loved every minute of it (except observing the rats running to and fro!).

I suspect that everyone expects to go up the Eiffel Tower as part of a trip to Paris, but really the rest of Paris is flat. So, we decided that we would much rather take some photos of the structure dedicated to the beauty of Paris from the ground. I don’t think our view from the top would have been much of an improvement on what we saw from the Sacre Coeur.

Captivating

I found this poem by Linda Harnett, and found it to reflect most accurately, our day together in Paris.

Rekindle

Why don’t we meet up in Paris?
Rekindle romance once again,
Let’s stand side by side,
In the moonlight,
Sail away on a boat on the Seine,

They say it’s romantic in Paris,
I wonder if that’s really true,
Is it something to do with the weather?
Or something,
To do with the view?

Why don’t we meet up in Paris?
Take a train, a boat or a plane,
Make our way to the streets,
Of Montmartre,
Rekindle the flame once again.

Linda Harnett

Balancing Act

Paris – a city full of whispers of beauty as well as tales of adventure and conflict. Yesterday, we spent a lovely overcast and slightly drizzly day exploring. After learning from our family excursions into London, we knew that attempting to take on the city by walking the entire area of key sites is not recommended. However, the actual area of Paris is 7 times less than that of a city like Edmonton and this might lead you into thinking that you could access all sites with ease on your own two feet. And you could. You would not however, want to attempt that while trying to balance the interests and energy levels of a 10, 7, 6, and 4 year old. Our friend Daryll and his daughters also joined us for the day and I’m pleased to report it as a stellar success.

View of the Eiffel Tower from the Arc de Triomphe

Ethan enjoyed “petting” the carp at Cineaqua.

When travelling to so many iconic cities and sites, it is easy to become overwhelmed and frankly, slide into a checklist approach where one checks an event or site off a list as opposed to really engaging in the travel, the pulse of the community or people, and even (my literary side glows dimly here), the voice of the amazing structures and stories they have to tell. By taking numerous breaks, bringing snacks, allowing everyone the time and space needed to take in the view and information, and planning some less “cultural” stops (Golden Arches), we reached a happy medium for all. For those of you with younger children contemplating Paris, I’m including our list of places and activities:

• Arrived via train from Rouen and walked to the Eiffel Tower – toured grounds (we did not go up – as it was quite cloudy)
• Walked to Cineaqua (Paris Aquarium) which has over 500 species of fish and a large shark tank which caught everyone’s interest. It took us about an hour and a half to tour and we were almost entirely alone the entire time.
• Walked to av des Champs-Elysees and went to the top of the Arc de Triomphe.
• Enjoyed high quality French cuisine at the Golden Arches.
• Walked down to the Seine and took a Batobus river cruise. This is a hop on hop off service which was perfect and cost effective.
• Toured the Cathedral of Notre Dame thoroughly enjoying the beautiful bells, gruesome gargoyles, and stained glass windows.
• Walked the Ile de la Cite and then got back on the Batobus to returned to av des Champs-Elysees where we caught the metro.
• Purchased food at a grocery store, plunked down on our coats in the middle of the square in front of Gare St. Lazare (train station) and enjoyed watching the people go by until it was time to catch our train.

The crew on the Batobus

This picture does not do justice to the sheer size of the structure. We went to the top – well worth the stairs.

The skies cleared off later in the day and Kelly snapped a photo while on the Batobus

Notice Anderson’s expression and the location of his hand.

All told we left our house at 7:15 am to catch our train and arrived back at the house at 11:00 pm. We managed to escape major tears and meltdowns. Paris in September is gentle with those who tour it. We weren’t tossed to and fro by crowds, the temperature was perfect, and were able to appreciate the beauty around us- success!

Je me souviens

Kelly and I have agreed to share this blog – meaning that certain explorations may certainly, as evidenced below, be better described by Kelly than myself. 

Dieppe.  A name that evokes, or should evoke, emotions in each Canadian.  Pride. A sense of futile loss.  Anger at the Germans.  Frustration with the British planners.  Standing on the rocky beach of Dieppe, viewing the small crowd enjoying the late summer sunshine and lack of congestion, one has a difficult time imagining the chaos of 71 years ago. The evidence that something extraordinary occurred is there.  The numerous Canadian flags where none should be present.  The streets named after our nation.  The war memorials with the maple leaf present and indeed, foremost.  The peaceful and immaculately kept cemetery, with over 700 Canadian servicemen buried there. The French remember.

On August 19, 1942, some 4963 Canadians of the 2nd Canadian Division and 1070 other Allied troops assaulted the German-held port of Dieppe on the Normandy coast, with diversionary attacks on Puys and Pourville.  Roughly  six hours later, 907 Canadians were dead.  568 Canadians were wounded.  1946 Canadians were captured.  A shocking 69% casualty rate.  The mission was ill-conceived, poorly planned, and had, at best, nebulous objectives.

The German bunkers that remain on the sheer cliffs of Dieppe still provide a perfect view of the beach.  However the size of the beachhead allows one to at least see a puncher’s chance of striking a blow against the defenders.  This is not the case at Puys. The miniscule landing area is flanked on either side by huge cliffs.  The seawall, which was supposed to provide defilade against German fire was in fact perfectly situated beneath the muzzles of German machine guns.  83% of the 556 members of the Royal Regiment of Canada became casualties.  The weather changes here. The temperature drops. The fog rolls in. And it is fitting.

Watching my boys play in the water and on the beach at Dieppe, I am struck by the fact that other Canadian youth had to suffer so deeply in this same place.  They helped to ensure our ability to freely enjoy our world.  I am deeply thankful. Je me souviens.

Impressions

I cannot convey how truly overwhelmed I am at the opportunity and beauty that surrounds our family. While I recognize that regions of France certainly have varied reputations, the Normandy region is an incredible area filled with gorgeous national forested parks, seaside beaches, and fertile farmland. People are friendly and gracious.

Yesterday, we ventured out to Dieppe and Kelly will be blogging about that sombre experience. We are working on our French and are determined not to use “Parlez-vous anglais?” in any situation though I must admit I feel so intimidated in the “epicerie” (grocery story), but have learned the following:

1. In major grocery stores you weigh your fresh produce and print out a barcode on your own.

2. They serve “cheval” at major grocery stores. Yoiks?!!! No wonder Britain was scandalized by the news this past winter that many of their “beef” products were actually horse!

3. Wine and cider is unbelievably cheap and is a process and story to be celebrated as opposed to mindlessly consumed.

4. Milk is NOT refrigerated and yes, we may have walked repeatedly around the cooler section looking for milk!

French women have got something figured out – I don’t know what it is, but they have a certain understanding about the subtleties of what it is to be a lovely woman. I noticed this in London as well, but there is much more attention paid to dressing well and for occasions than one notices in North America. To my eye, (granted for others, it was sheer vanity), women take the time to look after themselves and those around them paying attention to detail. I think I have more than a few things to learn in regards to not being the harried housewife and career woman – rather enjoy the gifts God has given, and pay attention to the details. They tell us more than we think if we take the time.

The boys watching the sunset over the Seine this evening…

En Français…

We have made it to France and are in the region of Normandy staying in a beautiful farmhouse on the Seine. 5 minutes from the village of St. Martin and 15 minutes from the larger city of Rouen – we get the best of both urban and rural living.

After saying goodbye to Scotland and to our daughter Bailey, who flew back to Toronto to start her final year of high school, we began a two day journey to Rouen. Our first leg was taking the train from Glasgow to London where we realized the importance of being early to one’s train car when carrying larger amounts of luggage. Our MEC duffle bags have shown their worth as our boys are completely capable of pulling them on and off trains (you do have to “Mind the Gap”) in quick order. Once in London, we decided to walk the 5 blocks to our hotel and as it was Friday evening, London was coming alive with people. Ethan is a pro at what we have deemed “darting and blocking.” I do believe he could navigate his way through pretty much any major station or airport after the past two days.

We stayed at the Preimer Inn at Kingscross Station as we had yet another early start the next day and booked the “family suite” – which is actually a small hotel room with a regular bed with two cots pushed into each side and no room to walk anywhere. That being said, the beds were comfortable and the room was clean and cool so we were happy. With another early alarm, the boys did so well at getting up and ready with no prompting. For any parents reading this, you know what a great blessing it truly is. Two days of 4:00 am alarms combined with time pressures and unfamiliar territory can go sideways in a hurry – these two were pros and seem to have any easy grasp of the importance of being efficient and focused.  Ethan, however, did get a rather rude welcome to a Saturday morning in downtown London – he was looking at another person walking by (it was 4:50 am), and he along with his bag rolled directly through a rather large patch of Saturday night revelry (puke). Poor kid was horrified, but we managed to look after him.

We then took the train from London to Gare Du Nord in Paris and had 53 minutes to get from that station to the national train station, St. Lazare – a feat that the train website warned was often difficult. We took that as a challenge and made it to our connecting train in under 30 minutes! Sometimes being competitively minded is real asset! It seemed that everything was going so well until…

We get to Rouen and true to the French way, everyone has a two hour lunch break so we had to wait around for 2 hours to pick up our rental vehicle. Then we had the issue of no wifi – anywhere which meant that none of Kelly’s information and directions to the house rental were available (valuable lesson of doing things the old fashioned way was definitely learned). So, after finding a grocery store and purchasing some basics, we went to find our place. I cannot describe how difficult it is to navigate an unknown city, in a language you have little understanding of, followed by a sat nav system that seemed  to me to be possessed! As we were driving around looking for a hotel or travel agency where we might ask to use their wifi, it seemed that none were in the area so I got out of the car in the middle of traffic determined to charm my way into using some shop keepers computer. With little French, I met a lovely fellow who worked in an electronics shop selling unusually large disco balls – during this time I was able to get some basic directions to our country abode. However, jumping out in the middle of traffic also meant that I had NO idea where Kelly was at. My joy at finding directions and letting the hosts know we were going to be late was short lived as I looked out into a sea of vehicles. After 5 minutes (which really seemed so much longer) of walking to each street corner and feeling a wee bit of panic, I heard Kelly shouting my name and all was good again.

Our tired and somewhat stressed family arrived at our incredible house which  is more like a perfect retreat. There’s a pond with ducks (who come and poop on the deck right in front of us each morning), an island in the pond, the river running by, and a beautiful interior with huge floor to ceiling windows that open making you feel as though you’re sitting outside, but in the shade. We are so thankful!

The view of our house looking from the river.

The island which will no doubt be the site for a few battles between the boys…and let’s hope they don’t fall in.

 

School starts tomorrow for the boys and yes we start into more of a routine though significantly different than the rest of their friends I suspect. I will post my initial thoughts of French culture, people, and food later on today – I have fallen in love with rural France and am now incredibly motivated to learn as much French as possible!