Let’s Chat(eau) Part Deux

While the sheer size and grandeur of the architecture of Chateau de Chambord makes it worthwhile seeing, it was our second day spent at Chateau de Chenonceau which stands out in my mind. Ethan and Anderson were united in their view that they preferred the much more masculine, action packed events of the previous day, though I trust that one day, their exposure to the romance of the architecture, gardens etc, will stand them in good stead. Kelly – being the incredibly balanced fellow he is, admitted to preferring Chenonceau due to the history surrounding it and the setting.

As much of the chateau was designed by women, I wondered prior to arrival if I would notice. Suffice it to say – I fell in love with Chenonceau. Delicate yet strong; elaborate but practical; set apart, yet with a history of supporting those in need – Chenonceau provides one with every opportunity to appreciate the beauty, wonder at the story, and smile at the intrigue.

The gallery spans the width of the Loire River.

A view from the opposite side.

Built in the early 1500s, the original building did not cross the river. It wasn’t until King Henri II’s donation of the castle to his favourite and much older, Diane de Poitiers that she designed a bridge to be built across the river. Queen Catherine de Medici was less than pleased with Diane’s involvement and following King Henri II’s death in 1559, Queen Catherine promptly took it back from Diane sending her to Chateau de Chaumont (which she knew she hated).  It was during this time when Queen Catherine had the famous Gallery built on top of Diane’s bridge.

The famous Gallery.

In the 1800s, Louise Dupin owned the chateau and brought all the thinkers of the time – Voltaire, Rousseau, Montesquieu etc. to spend time there. She is a woman I plan on doing some further research about as her vision of Chenonceau, treatment of others, and leadership as a woman during a time where men dominated most aspects, is fascinating.

During World War I, the chateau was used as a hospital for wounded soldiers, and in World War II, due to it’s position on the river, was an important path for the french to flee from the German occupied areas. Both Kelly and I are hoping to find some further literature about the area during the two world wars – any recommendations?

As the boys put up with our ponderous exploration of the chateau, they had one thing which excited them – the maze! The boys did relatively well with moving through the chateau with quiet and calm, allowing them to save up all their energy for a rousing game of tag. Even the grounds crew working alongside the maze chuckled at our antics as the Pitman competitive spirits came out in full force. While the boys have never shown much interest in growing things back at home, I suspect the prospect of growing hedges for the purpose of designing a maze might catch their interest!

A-Maze-ing fun!

Given our short stay in the Loire area, we certainly pleased with our two spectacular days!  We’ve just finished possibly the longest drive of our entire year as we’re now in the Alsace region staying in Riquewihr. More posts to come!

Let’s Chat(eau)

Apologies for the title – but we can’t help ourselves when it comes to opportunities for a class play on words! We have since left our beloved house just outside of Quevillion and are back on the road. For the next 4 weeks we are staying a maximum of a week at any one place and admittedly, this creates a bit of anxiety for my homebody self. Nonetheless, it has been a fun challenge to find quality lodging reflective of the area we’re in at a reasonable price. Many an hour has been spent trolling the websites of Homeaway, Airbnb, and Frenchmaison.com I cannot imagine the cost of travelling in France in the summer as rates are considerably more and for a family, could certainly be prohibitive. In our case, we are currently in low season and are still enjoying 20 degree weather though the sun may peek somewhat less frequently.

Currently, we’re staying in the small village of Chaumont sur Loire located in the famous Loire Valley known for its grandiose chateaus. Our apartment is quaint and replete with the traditional exposed beams, blue window shutters, and teensy spiral staircase. We even have our own herb garden!

The main floor is the size of our living room at home!

Driving through the countryside along a road with brief glimpses of the Loire River, swans floating serenely by, and countless sunflower fields, we arrived at our first chateau – Chateau de Chambord www.chambord.org/en.  Sunday’s weather was rather wet – okay it was a downpour, but as we had purchased tickets to the Equestrian Spectacular Show  the evening prior, we were all in. Despite the rain, this show was well worth it! Trick riding, swashbuckling, dressage, romance – it was all included and had us leaving with big smiles. I of course, felt compelled to encourage Kelly to become involved in all things equestrian, along with growing his hair, wearing white frilly shirts, and tight pants!

One of the many fields of sunflowers bordered by wild flowers.

One of the performers (and his rider).

These folks and their horses were troopers in the pouring rain.

Following the show, we had planned to rent bikes and tour the grounds, but by this time the sheets of water falling from the sky deterred us and we switched plans to tour the inside of the chateau. You can imagine the joy our boys expressed at their new schedule!

Their clear JOY! One would think they would be happy to be out of the rain!

Chambord itself is imposing and it’s difficult to comprehend the grandeur without and within. It is evident that the desire to be “set apart” by lodgings most definitely replaced any type of practicality as every room description revealed issues with heating. Chambord was commissioned by Francois I in 1519 as a hunting lodge and was completed 28 years later. Leonardo da Vinci is rumoured to have designed many aspects of the chateau including a double spiral staircase at the center of the building.

Immense

 

Looking back at Kelly as we each go up separate staircases.

Stories of intrigue, royal influence, and competition swirl around and I was struck by a history of leaders constantly trying to navigate the muddy waters of political influence, planning (plotting), and actual care for the people (also severely lacking). The challenge of “keeping up with the Joneses'” is a theme throughout history merely with another name inserted.

As the rain had finally dissipated, we ventured to rent bikes (no helmets are available!), and tour the grounds. The boys have sorely missed their bikes and were more than a little excited to generate some of their own speed.

Anderson’s day was made as he finally got to ride a bike again!

Deciding to access all that was available at Chambord, we had also booked a horse drawn carriage ride. As we walked up to the pick up area, the boys were quietly grumbling at the prospects of riding in a large wagon filled with “old” tourists for 45 minutes. They were soon overjoyed to hear that we would be riding in a small carriage and it would only be our family! We loved our ride through through the closed off forests filled with wild boar and deer. Wild boar really look like black bears from far off…with larger noses. It was great fun to see these beasts in action grubbing about the dirt. A full day to be sure!